Wednesday, April 28, 2010

"Climb Ev'ry Mountain"

Is Korean Oh Eun-sun first woman

to climb world's 14 highest peaks?

Oh Eun-Sun on Kangchenjunga

with reporting from Stephen Mulvey
BBC News

Korea's Oh Eun-sun says she is the first woman to have

climbed the world's 14 highest mountains, but one of

her peaks is being disputed.

There is no official record of who has climbed the world's 14

mountain peaks over 8,000m high. But for the nine mountains

in the Nepali Himalayas, record keeping is kept by Elizabeth

Hawley,an 86-year-old American woman based in Kathmandu.

Ms Hawley traveled to Nepal as a journalist in September 1960

and has remained there ever since. Although she has never

climbed a mountain in her life, Hawley is the foremost chronicler

of Himalayan expeditions for over four decades. She is respected

by the international mountaineering community because of her

complete, accurate records. Climbers who want to be recognized

for climbing Everest must, following their descent, be interviewed

by Hawley and her staff.

On May 8, 2008, French climber Francois Damilano named a

newly climbed peak in Nepal after Ms Hawley.

Peak Hawley is 6,182 meters high.

Last week Ms Hawley amended her Himalayan Database to mark

Oh Eun-sun's 2009 ascent of Kangchenjunga as "disputed", after

listening to arguments from Ms Oh's Spanish rival, Edurne Pasaban.

Ms Hawley will interview Ms Oh and her Sherpas upon their return

from Annapurna, where they are currently climbing. Annapurna is

a series of peaks in the Himalayas

("annapurna" means "goddess of the harvests").

The Annapurna peaks are among the world's most dangerous mountains to climb,

with a fatality rate of more than 40%.

If Ms Hawley decides to classify Ms Oh's ascent of

Kangchenjunga as "unrecognised", her competitors

- Edurne Pasaban, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner of Austria,

and Nives Meroi of Italy - will be once again back in

the race to become the first woman to successfully

climb the world's 14 highest mountains.

Graphic showing race to climb 14 tallest peaks


The Disputed Mountain Ascent: Kangchenjunga

Kangchenjunga translated means "The Five Treasures of Snows",

as it contains five peaks (four of them over 8,450 metres high).

The treasures represent the five repositories of God, which are gold,

silver, gems, grain, and holy books. Kangchenjunga translates as

"mountain to which we offer greetings".


These issues are at the heart of the dispute over Kangchenjunga:

The summit photographs - Ms Oh ascended Kangchenjunga

with three Sherpas, in poor weather. A video of the

ascent in driving snow is said to be so blurry that it

could have been taken anywhere. A still photograph

was taken at the summit (see first photo above).

Ms Hawley believes the photograph may not have

been taken at the summit, because "summit pictures

of other people on the same mountain in the same

season show them standing in the snow". There are

rocks visible in Ms Oh's photo.

The Sherpas - One of the Sherpas who accompanied

Ms Oh on the ascent of Kangchenjunga told Ms Hawley's

assistant that the ascent did occur. Ms Hawley now would

like to talk to the other sherpas to record their statements.

The rope - The summit photograph shows a green rope

stretching over Ms Oh's left boot. Spanish climber Ferran

Latorre, who climbed to the summit of Kangchenjunga with

Ms Pasaban 12 days after Ms Oh, has suggested that this

is a rope fixed to the mountain by her Sherpas. He says

this fixed rope went no higher than 8,350m, and concludes

that the photograph was taken some 200m or so below

the 8,586m summit. Jin Park of Blackyak, the Korean

company that sponsors Ms Oh, says the rope in the

picture is a 5mm rope used for attaching accessories

- in this case, probably, an ice axe - rather than climbing.

The flag - Ms Oh was carrying a Korean flag to the summit.

It was found by the next climbers to scale Kangchenjunga

- Norwegian climber Jon Gangdal, and his Swedish climbing

partner - weighed down by four stones, about 50m or 60m

below the summit. (By comparing Ms Oh's summit photograph

with his own shots from the summit, Mr Gangdal thinks

Ms Oh's photograph could well have been taken in roughly

the same place he found the flag.) Jin Park says Ms Oh

mislaid the flag during the climb.


THE WORLD'S HIGHEST PEAKS
Mountains over 8000m graphic